Fifty-Seven - Conway - Carnedd Llywelyn (1064m)

Another two year hiatus, but we've finally got round to climbing the last, and toughest, County Top in Wales. This involves climbing two other peaks and a bit of scrambling - quite a test for W's brand new boots which were a distress purchase the day before.

Looking down on Tryfan and the Ogwen valley

From the park up next to Lyn Ogwen we walked to Tal y Lyn Ogwen farm at the east end of the lake. The climb up the Snowdonia Slate Trail here is next to Afon Lloer which hurtles down the hillside in a series of little waterfalls. Then it was a turn to the west and a short scramble up through a gully to reach the scree paths leading to the top of Pen Yr Ole Wen (978m). The views of Tryfan and the Glyderau as we climbed up were superb, and eventually Eryri comes into view as well. Once at the summit, we were also rewarded by sunshine and the sight of the Menai Strait below to the North West.

View from Pen-Yr-Ole-Wen, with Llywelyn
peeking out over the right shoulder of Dafydd

Then it was off to the next peak along the ridge, Carnedd Dafydd (1044m), along some rather rubbly scree paths to the stone shelter at the top. The mountain is named after Prince Dafydd ap Gruffud who was captured in 1283 during the conquest of Wales by Edward I and executed at Shrewsbury. This put an end to the independent nation of Wales after 700 years of rule by the House of Gwynedd.

Our final peak was Carnedd Llywelyn (1064m), variously cited as being named after Dafydd's elder brother, father or grandfather. Although only 20m higher than its younger brother, there's a descent and another slog of a climb to reach the summit. On the way we passed the first small patches of snow we'd seen on our walk, and although we did have a stop for a sandwich and a chat with some fellow walkers it was brief due to the cold.

Last remnants of the winter snow

Stone cairn at the County Top

Obligatory selfie at the summit!

From here we made our way back down Penywaun- wen (another bit of a scrambly descent) and across Bwylch Eryl Farchog ridge where a steep path to the right took us down to the reservoir below and back along the waterboard path to the main road.

Fifty-Six - Dorset - Lewdson Hill (279m)

The climb to the top is via Lewsdon Hill Lane through ancient beech and oak woods, and walking up the beautiful, deep set footpath feels like entering Middle Earth.

Dark, ancient woodland

The summit is a grassy mound in a clearing at the top of the hill which is the site of an Iron Age hillfort.

View from the top. The sea just
visible between the trees on the horizon

In 1942. Belgian pilot Jean de Clodet tragically crashed his Spitfire on the hill in thick fog. The gap in the trees where he came gown is still here.

Memorial to Jean de Clodet

Fifty-Five - West Sussex - Blackdown Hill (279m)

Having learnt our lesson yesterday trying to park close to Ditchling Beacon, today we headed into the town of Haslemere to park, and from there had a great, circular walk up to the Sussex Border Trail and the Serpent Trail. 

Once out of the town and up on the National Trust land at Blackdown it's clear the area is very popular with Sunday walkers and their dogs, though no one follows us as we head off-piste for 5 minutes to locate the trig point on a quieter overgrown path through the trees. There are lovely views across to the West, and later southwards from the Temple of the Four Winds and its semi circular stone seat, although in the pub the night before the locals were telling us about the tragedy of the Blackdown air crash in 1967 when all on board an Iberian Airlines flight were killed after their plane flew into the hill just below. We walked back through the woods and along tree-lined Tennyson's Lane which is named after the poet who built a home here.

Triangulation Point at Blackdown Hill
 now surrounded by tall trees

View to the west with
unusual cloud formations

Fifty-Four - East Sussex - Ditchling Beacon (248m)

The National Trust carpark at Ditchling Beacon is compact to say the least, and on a Saturday afternoon, not far from Brighton, it was rammed with cars. Definitely no room for us in our campervan and so we spent a good 45 minutes driving round trying to find somewhere to park, as the lanes were so narrow and busy, eventually finding a layby on the B road towards Plumpton. This did actually work out really well, and although it was another there-and-back route we found a steep tarmacked path which took us up to Streathill Farm and a good walk across the South Downs Way. In the distance to the south we could see the curvy roof of Brighton velodrome and the levitating 360 viewing platform on the seafront. The weather was blustery and showery, but when the low, late-afternoon winter sun briefly emerged the views were lovely.

 

Lovely late afternoon sun

Trig point at Ditchling Beacon summit

Fifty-Two & Fifty-Three - Greater London - Westerham Heights (245m) & Kent - Betsom’s Hill (251m)

From looking at the map we knew these two County Tops were only of interest to “completists” such as the “PeakyFinders” and not for the quality of the walk or the views afforded. There's only 5 minutes walk between the two of them but it involves a walk along the dirty, busy A233 which has no parking and no footpath. Luckily for us, Westerham Heights Nurseries were kind enough to let us park in their carpark for half an hour (we did ask permission).

Highest point in Greater London next to 
Westerham Heights Farm on the A233

Highest point in Kent - very
unassuming, on a little lane off the A233

So after dodging cars, lorries and buses, we unsurprisingly agreed that these were the worst two peaks we've done, but at least they are both crossed of the list - so “mission accomplished”. Definitely better places for a stroll in Kent and Greater London!

Fifty-One - Surrey - Leith Hill (294m)

Pleasant walk from the National Trust carpark up through the woods to Leith Tower and then back through the fields past Leith Place, home to the Wedgewood family, although both buildings are closed at this time of year. 

Leith Hill Tower, with trig point to the right

Leith Tower was built with the express intention of increasing the height of Leith Hill to become the highest point in South East England and to allow the public a grand view of the surrounding counties. Apparently on a clear day you can see both the London Eye to the north-east and the sea near Shoreham to the south. Needless to say, it wasn't a clear day!

Tree sculpture

Wood carving on the path back down

Forty-Nine & Fifty - Berkshire - Walbury Hill (297m) & Hampshire - Pilot Hill (286m)

Two county tops for the price of one today, both located a few miles apart on the same ridge, together with an excursion to see some gruesome history.

Coombe Gibbet where in the 17th Century
the bodies of executed miscreants were hung
 as an example to others. 

Walbury Hill is the summit of the North Wessex Downs as well as the highest point in Berkshire, and the highest point in South East England.  At the summit is an iron age hill fort, Walbury camp, but the true summit is marked by a triangulation pillar which isn't actually on the main path, the Wayfarers Walk, and therefore involved a cheeky sprint south in order to bag it.

Summit of Walbury Hill (Berkshire)

It was a glorious sunny day, but bitterly cold, and carrying on eastwards along the ridge brought us just into Hampshire, and to  Pilot Hill, it's highest point. The spot marked by another trig point in the middle of a bolted cabbage field. 

Trig point at Pilot Hill (Hampshire) .......

...... surrounded by hundreds of bolted brassicas

From up here you can see Stargroves, which was the country house and recording studio of Mick Jagger back in the 70s. Looking further north, Newbury could just be seen in the distance. The various byeways, bridleways and footpaths were all really muddy and the best way back today seemed to be to simply retrace our steps back to where we had parked, though we did also walk up to Combe Gibbet to see the notorious double gibbet. This gave probably the best view of the whole seven mile walk!

View to the north from Pilot Hill

Forty Eight - Wiltshire - Milk Hill (295m)

Due to W busting his Achilles tendon in October 2019 while hiking in Madeira, followed by various surgical boots, an operation to insert artificial tendon, and lots of physio, this is the first county top for nearly two and a half years. It's good to be back - but shame about the weather!

Lonely, windswept tree. Awful visibility

We drive through misty rain to get to Pewsey Downs carpark, and although the drizzle peters out, the mist persists, making this walk quite disappointing due to a distinct lack of views.

Part of the White Horse Trail in the
Vale of Pewsey

It's interesting to walk along part of the 35 mile Wansdyke, ancient battle  defences and the onwards towards the hill. Presumably it was named Milk Hill due to the colour of its chalk rock, but it can't be seen particularly well today and we embark on a foggy and slightly muddy yomp to the highest point, which, as we suspected, is about 50 metres within a barb-wire fenced off field and has to be " bagged" from a distance. 

Somewhere in this misty, relatively
flat field is the "summit".

A little further on we walk along the backbone of the Alton Barnes white horse. It's one of eight in Wiltshire, and although it looks primitive and ancient, it was actually carved in 1812 for the farmer who owned the land. The only view of it today through the gloom is of two ears and a tail!

Pointy ears of a rather sad looking white horse

Back down to the carpark and a pot of hot coffee and a picnic lunch in "Barti Ddu" (Black Bart), our new campervan.

Picnic scotch egg and chilli-jam sausage roll.
Probably the highlight of the day!

Forty Seven - West Midlands - Turner's Hill (271m)

We have driven up the hill to Dudley Golf Club. Non members are welcome but we don't park in the carpark which would be cheeky. We walk up a scruffy bit of tarmac lane, past a police sign telling us that we're in an "antisocial behaviour hotspot", and up to a metal gate which is as close as we can get.

Friendly horse "guarding" the transmission tower.

Gate open - however operatives are just 

inside - and "no we can't have a quick peek"

 due to "sensitive equipment"!

As close as we can get. 

Brutalist Brummie architecture!

Turner's Hill

On the way back down there's another footpath into a field where we do get a slightly better view of the transmitter and say hello to a gently friendly horse. Unfortunately, even though it is clearly an elevated spot above the city of Birmingham (where our namesakes "The Peaky Blinders" originate), there is no view of the city skyline to be had due to the scrub and bushes.

Forty Six - Gwynedd - Snowdon (1085m)

Our second-to-last Welsh peak, and only one day available to climb it and company, our eldest daughter, (Welsh born and bred), who was desperate to reach the top. And the forecast was for fog and cloud until lunchtime. Classic bad news, and we did consider waiting til midday to go up but we do like an early start and we wanted a spot in the carpark. Fingers crossed that the mist would lift as we climbed, we set off up the Pyg track in heavy cloud cover and a smattering of drizzle. At least the weather put paid to any ambitions to climb Crib Goch as not everyone was keen on that idea, even on a clear dry day. We made good progress, prepared to turn back if things took a turn for the worse, but as the path levelled out we began to see Llyn Llydaw glinting below us to our left.

Low cloud starting to clear with views opening up

Carrying on up we made a note of the tall stone post marking the beginning of the Miners Track and our route down past Glaslyn later, and then continued to climb, using hands on occasion to help us. We could hear the train whistle going up the Llanberis pass before we reached it, and eventually we joined the path running parallel with the track to the top. and with it a lot more people.

Snowdon Mountain Railway

The easy way up!

First glimpse of the summit through 

more drifting fog and cloud

But there was plenty of room at the summit to have a look around and take pictures. Not the very best views from the top, but still great to be up there, and of course you have to visit the cafe for a cuppa- because it's there.... They also sell beer and pasties as big as your head, which we didn't need as we had brought a picnic to eat overlooking the lakes below.

View from the top

Brass plaque and trig point at the summit

Brunch bars all round!

"Here you are nearer to heaven", reads 

the inscription on the side of the café

Jess - highest person in the whole

 of England & Wales

Jess, the previous day - Graduation from 

Manchester Uni - a bit of a difference!

Lunch spot on the way back down

Back at Pen y Pass, we were thirsty, so we called in at the legendary Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel for three well deserved pints of beer and a gawp at the climbing memorabilia.

Three pints of "Purple Moose" ale

Excellent walk, and only one more Welsh "County Top" now to go, Carnedd Llewelyn, which despite a summit 21 metres lower than Snowdon, is regarded as a harder climb.

Forty Five - Anglesey - Holyhead Mountain (220m)

South Stack lighthouse - start and 

finish of the walk

It's very busy up here on a Sunday afternoon.  The RSPB have a carpark but it's full, as is the overflow carpark, but we manage to find a space a bit further up the road and admire the lighthouse at South Stack before setting off.

Multiple paths across the mountain,

 but well signposted

There seem to be a lot of options, pathwise, but it's pretty obvious where we're going and as we get closer the way  to the rocky quartzite top is well signposted. There are plenty of climbers as well as walkers making their way up too.

Quite an impressive sheer-sided hill, 

for such a relatively low altitude summit

We reach the summit quickly and admire views of the ferry coming in to Holyhead below us, though it's not clear enough to see the Wicklow mountains this afternoon. The town's harbour wall is impressive from here ; it's 1.7 miles long and was built using rock from the mountain.

Trig point at top, with harbour breakwater

and Irish ferry in background

The route down again is quick and easy, leaving us plenty of time to get to our holiday cottage in Menai Bridge.

Forty Three & Forty Four - Denbighshire - Cadair Berwyn (832m) & Wrexham - Cadair Bronwen (784m)

Pistyll Rhaeder waterfall at start of walk

This is a pretty remote spot, and again a place we wouldn't have visited unless we'd been off finding county peaks. We stayed a couple of nights in a cosy cottage a few doors up from Tafarn Llaw in Llanrhaeder yn Morchant, and the road heading west out of the village eventually peters out at Pistyll Rhaeder where our walk began.  The waterfall  here is  impressive, plummeting down the cliff face so you can feel the force of the air pushed out at you. We parked on the road as it was a quiet Monday ; we were grateful later because the tearoom carpark is not only £4 but also closes at 6 pm and we would have spent the afternoon rushing to get down off the mountain in time to retrieve the car.

Climbing across moorland towards Moel Sych 

We were surprised to get a bit lost trying to find our route upwards at the beginning of the walk. The footpath is geared towards visitors making their way to the top of the falls and this, combined with the fact that our track  didn't quite fit the GPS confused us slightly. Still, after a stiff pull up to the top of the valley the contour lines spread out a bit and the climb got steadier as we ascended to Trum Felin. This is a ridge walk, but the ridge is intersected by a succession of valleys and passes, which makes for a fascinating landscape. It also means that you spend a lot of time losing the height you have gained before hoofing it up the next peak. 

Cairn on top of Moel Sych with 

Cadair Berwyn in background

After Trum Felin our next climb was up to Moel Sych, which was originally claimed as the highest point in Denbighshire. It is clearly not the highest point, so we were puzzled as to how this confusion arose but once up there you can see Llyn Lluncaws (happily translates as The Lake that Looks Like a Cheese) below and the landscape starts to open out in all its wild glory. We were trying to spot the alternative return route that we later intended to take, and although we could see a path on the other side of the lake we couldn't fathom how we would get down there without wingsuits.
We pressed on to Cadair Berwen, our Denbighshire peak and the highest point of our walk, and stopped to look at the fantastic panoramic views.

Cadair Berwyn summit

View from Cadair Berwyn with 

Llyn Lluncaws below

Panorama from Cadair Berwyn summit

Trig point at Cadair Berwyn (North Top)
with actual summit in distance

It was still a decent undulating hike across extensive peat bogs (Denbighshire Council had kindly built some raised wooden pathways across the worst of it) to claim Cadair Bronwen as the highest point over in Wrexham.

Cairn on top of Cadair Bronwen

Return path via Llyn Lluncaws - looking 

back at Cadair Berwyn summit in the distance

From here we made quick time retracing our steps southwards (including claiming the summit at Cadair Berwyn for a second time) until we suddenly found ourselves teetering down a narrow path to the left, off the edge of the ridge, almost without noticing. We had accidentally found our return route back via the lake, and with some care (not one for fog or ice, this) we made our way down. 

Surprised to see a lizard at such 

a wet exposed high spot

GPS plot of our route

This was a fairly vigorous hike, with considerable height having to be lost and then gained again in order to grab both county tops on the same walk. Cadair Berwyn is actually the 5th highest "county top" in the whole of England and Wales, and Cadair Bronwen the 7th - even though both are pretty much unheard of and unwalked. Other than a few people at the tearoom and waterfall when we started the walk, we didn't meet another person for the rest of the day.

Profile of walk - with Cadair Berwyn being 

climbed  twice, & with the lower Cadair 

Bronwen - in the centre of the chart

A short drive back to the cottage, and a couple of well earned pints beckoned in the Tafern Llaw.